From the category archives:

The X-pat Files

Looking outside at the grey sky, listening to the heavy rainfall, it’s hard to believe that just a few weeks ago it was so hot that we decided to go to Lucerne and spend the whole afternoon on a boat, on a 3 1/2 hour tour of the lake.

Lucerne

Lake Lucerne is of special significance for Switzerland: it was on its shores that the Swiss Confederation was first founded,  and it is on its shores that the greater part of the Wilhelm Tell legend takes place.

In fact in Switzerland, the lake isn’t called Lake Lucerne at all: it is the Vierwaldstättersee, the lake of the four cantons; because the lake is actually “shared” among the four founding cantons of Switzerland: Uri, Schwyz, Unterwalden and Luzern.

As historically significant and renown as this lake may be, I have always felt fairly indifferent about it. I love Zurich above all other cities in Switzerland (though I do like Bern a lot!), and I have always found Lake Zurich far prettier than Lake Lucerne. But I love exploring, and so when my husband proposed we take the second-longest boat tour of the lake, I surprised him and myself by saying yes.

It’s impossible to capture just how lovely it was. 3 1/2 hours is a long time to be on a boat, but on this lake it is far from boring. Because of the configuration of the lake, with its bends and arms reaching into the mountains around it, the scenery changes constantly. You turn a bend, and it looks like a completely different place.

Vierwaldstättersee

Vierwaldstättersee -  Vitznau

In many of the towns around the lake, there is a peculiar mix of architectural styles, with old churches standing right next to modern complexes built to take full advantage of the beautiful view; but very often you will look at the more isolated old villas, houses and churches visible from the water and you will feel like you just stepped back in time.

Lake Lucerne - Meggenhorn Castle

And because a large part of the shoreline rises up into mountains – the tallest of them reaching 1,500 m above the lake – you get a magnificent view of mountains like the Rigi and the Pilatus… from below.

Vierwaldstättersee

This little outing gave me a whole new appreciation of what lays outside of Zurich. Ever since I moved here, I feel like I have been holding tight to Zurich, feeling that if I must live in Switzerland, this would be the only place I could consider calling home. And even when I visited some of the many beautiful places in this country, I always felt relieved to return to Zurich, with its busy streets and full social calendar.

But there is so much more. And now I find myself willing to give the rest of Switzerland a fair chance to capture me as much as Zurich has. Now if only it would stop raining, I might go exploring some more!

 

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When it comes to eating out, I am as picky about the place as I am about the food.
I don’t like dark, gloomy places, no matter how good the food might be.
I don’t like places with really uncomfortable seats, or where the atmosphere is stiff and formal – both things prevent me from relaxing, and that makes my meal/coffee break a lot less enjoyable.

Truth be told, when I am in Zurich during the day – weather permitting – I grab a salad or a gourmet sandwich and eat it outdoors, sitting by the lake or at the park.

On rainy days, I end up at Starbucks, the only place I know that seems to fit the bill – though of course, much as I may love my Soy Caramel Macchiato, chains tend to be a bit… impersonal.

Ah, if only there was a charming coffee shop with a friendly and relaxed atmosphere that I could use as my new landing base!

Ah, but there is – on June 7th a new place opened up in midtown Zurich: Babu’s Bakery and Coffee House.

As you can guess from the name, behind its doors you can find freshly baked bread (which my discerning Italian palate found irresistibly delicious) and great cappuccinos, but there’s so much you won’t know until you visit this lovely new Zurich spot: for starters, sandwiches made with the fabulous bread they bake fresh daily on the premises; several salads, made with fresh ingredients and also accompanied by a basket filled with a variety of breads to sample (my favorite? the veggie one with fleur de sel) and if you just fancy a nibble, lots of desserts and baked goods to accompany your tea or coffee.

So far, so good – but not so exciting, right? (Yeah, wait until you have sampled that amazing bread.)

Except when you enter Babu’s, the food won’t be the only thing charming you.

There’s the carved wooden shelves filled with candles, pottery, burlap totes and so forth, that will no doubt lure you in for at least a few minutes…

there’s the décor, with the antique cabinets and mismatched chairs around tables topped with vases of hydrangeas and roses…

there’s the fireplace in the corner, with two antique armchairs pulled up to it, an intimate corner that’s just calling for a good book and a cup of tea…

and when your grumbling stomach finally reminds you that despite all the lovely things distracting you, it’s food you actually came here for, there’s the vintage china on which your sandwich, salad or scone will be served, that will just make you pause and do a double-take to check whether you somehow landed in a little family restaurant in the heart of the French Provence or something of the sort.

And if that wasn’t enough, there’s the fact that I was always welcomed with a smile and a friendly attitude, which is especially appreciated in these parts. (Shhhh, that was a subtle dig at the local grumpiness.)

So, is it any surprise that I’ve already been here 4 times since they opened? Or that I am waxing enthusiastic about the place? Or that I am planning on going there again tomorrow?

In fact, if we meet up for lunch, or for a coffee and a chat, there’s a good chance I’ll end up bringing you here. And when I do, I bet you’ll be every bit as charmed as I am.

 

Babu’s Bakery & Coffeehouse
Löwenstrasse 1, Zurich
Map

 

 

 

All images property of  yours truly. My annoying perkiness is all my own and wasn’t due to any sponsoring or payment of any sort by the owners of Babu’s. Though if they like the post and they want to say thank you, I’ll graciously accept some of those gorgeous candles or mugs, or the pink burlap-and-leather tote, thank you very much ;-)

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Exploring Zurich: walking along the Schanzengraben

June 15, 2011 Switzerland

When I first moved to Zurich in 1999, it was a time of big changes. For the third time I had moved to a new place where I barely knew anyone, but this time it was a bit different. Being pregnant and new in a city where you couldn’t ask for directions or understand what the tram/bus [...]

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Shopping & Socializing in Zurich: the Monday Market at Rimini Bar

May 28, 2011 going out

One thing you will find in abundance in Zurich is closed lakeside and riverside pools, referred by the locals as Badi. As a spoiled Sardinian I don’t like swimming in the lake, so I never frequent them. However some of them take a whole different shape by night, when they are converted to lounge bars. [...]

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Copyright Elisa Bieg, 2008-2009.