From the category archives:

Switzerland

Looking outside at the grey sky, listening to the heavy rainfall, it’s hard to believe that just a few weeks ago it was so hot that we decided to go to Lucerne and spend the whole afternoon on a boat, on a 3 1/2 hour tour of the lake.

Lucerne

Lake Lucerne is of special significance for Switzerland: it was on its shores that the Swiss Confederation was first founded,  and it is on its shores that the greater part of the Wilhelm Tell legend takes place.

In fact in Switzerland, the lake isn’t called Lake Lucerne at all: it is the Vierwaldstättersee, the lake of the four cantons; because the lake is actually “shared” among the four founding cantons of Switzerland: Uri, Schwyz, Unterwalden and Luzern.

As historically significant and renown as this lake may be, I have always felt fairly indifferent about it. I love Zurich above all other cities in Switzerland (though I do like Bern a lot!), and I have always found Lake Zurich far prettier than Lake Lucerne. But I love exploring, and so when my husband proposed we take the second-longest boat tour of the lake, I surprised him and myself by saying yes.

It’s impossible to capture just how lovely it was. 3 1/2 hours is a long time to be on a boat, but on this lake it is far from boring. Because of the configuration of the lake, with its bends and arms reaching into the mountains around it, the scenery changes constantly. You turn a bend, and it looks like a completely different place.

Vierwaldstättersee

Vierwaldstättersee -  Vitznau

In many of the towns around the lake, there is a peculiar mix of architectural styles, with old churches standing right next to modern complexes built to take full advantage of the beautiful view; but very often you will look at the more isolated old villas, houses and churches visible from the water and you will feel like you just stepped back in time.

Lake Lucerne - Meggenhorn Castle

And because a large part of the shoreline rises up into mountains – the tallest of them reaching 1,500 m above the lake – you get a magnificent view of mountains like the Rigi and the Pilatus… from below.

Vierwaldstättersee

This little outing gave me a whole new appreciation of what lays outside of Zurich. Ever since I moved here, I feel like I have been holding tight to Zurich, feeling that if I must live in Switzerland, this would be the only place I could consider calling home. And even when I visited some of the many beautiful places in this country, I always felt relieved to return to Zurich, with its busy streets and full social calendar.

But there is so much more. And now I find myself willing to give the rest of Switzerland a fair chance to capture me as much as Zurich has. Now if only it would stop raining, I might go exploring some more!

 

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A couple of weeks ago I found myself free on a Saturday, so we decided to take a little day trip. My first pick: Bern.

I had gotten a hint of how lovely the capital of Switzerland is when we went there to do our Visa interviews a few years ago, before the move to New York, and then again when coming in by train to visit a friend who lived just outside of town. I decided it was time to take a better look, and so off we went.

Bern is about 1 and 1/2 hours from Zurich, mostly on the autobahn, a smooth ride with a nice scenery. Once there, I recommend leaving your car at the Rathaus Parking, which is easy to find, at walking distance from the city center, and affordable. And then just relax and go browse through the medieval city center, which has been recognised by UNESCO as a Cultural World Heritage Site.

The old town is a lovely place to explore, with its cobblestone streets, fountains, and medieval buildings and churches.

The Kramgasse, with its peculiar mix of old and new, is my favorite: on both sides of the street you can walk under the Lauben, store arcades that are home to a variety of shops and cafés. People are everywhere, browsing shopping windows under the Lauben, walking on the cobblestone pavement, stopping at one of the many fountains to chat or take photos.

Bern is home to lots of adorable little shops (and one really, really great English bookstore!), but one of the distinctive features of the city is the many pubs, clubs and bars housed in old cellars, especially along the Kramgasse.

Another cool thing about the  Kramgasse is that it ends with the Zytglogge, a famous clock tower dating back to the 13th century. Known for its astronomical clock, the Zytglogge is also a UNESCO World Culural Heritage Site, and a popular spot with tourists and locals alike.

Then of course there is the Bundeshaus, the House of Parliament, seat of the Swiss Federal Government and the National Councils.

But no visit to Bern is complete without a visit to the Bärenpark. The animal that the city’s name came from has also been depicted on the city’s coat of arms since the early 1200, and since the mid-1400 Bern has had a Bärengraben, a bear pit. To improve the bear’s living conditions and in answer to the many complaints, in the late 90s the city built a  6,000-square-meter site on the eastern bank of the Aare river to give a safer and more comfortable home to the small colony of bears that has called this area home for many many years.

After an entire day walking around we were ready to head home, but I felt like I had only just begun to explore this lovely city, so I am ready to go back for more! Who wants to join me?

 

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Ask GIH: One-day layover in Zurich

August 16, 2012 Switzerland

“I have a 12 hour layover in Zurich (10am-10pm) on the way to my final destination and am a freelance writer. Sadly, I have to work. Gladly, I get to do it from Zurich for a day. So… I know there are a few train options from the airport. What would you suggest as a relatively [...]

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Walking around a different town: Thun

February 28, 2012 photography

Exploring Bern was one of my travel resolutions for this year; but there are other places in Western Switzerland that I have been meaning to visit, and one of them is fairly close to Bern: a mere 30 kilometers from the Swiss capital, Thun is in fact older than Bern itself – Duke Berchtold V of [...]

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Copyright Elisa Bieg, 2008-2009.